ABERPORTH author Mike Lewis is celebrating the belated publication of his historical fiction novel based on events surrounding the most notorious mountaineering disaster of the 19th century.

‘The Icarus Ascent: Ghosts of the Matterhorn’ (Next Chapter Publishing) tells the story of the tragic first ascent of Switzerland’s most famous peak in 1865 – as seen through the eyes of the doomed climbers themselves.

Led by Englishman Edward Whymper, a seven-man party beat a rival Italian expedition to attain the summit of 'The Impossible Mountain'.

But triumph turned to disaster on the descent when guide Michel Croz, Douglas Hadow, Rev Charles Hudson and Lord Francis Douglas all plunged 4,000 feet to their deaths.

Whymper and the father-and-son guiding team of old Peter and young Peter Taugwalder only survived because the rope broke in mid-air between old Peter and Lord Douglas.

“The fall on the Matterhorn remains the most notorious mountaineering tragedy of all; grisly speculation as to why the rope broke – or even whether it was cut – persists to this day,” Mike told the Cambrian News.

“‘The Icarus Ascent’ uniquely allows those seven men, including the four who were lost, the opportunity to relate their stories – from beyond the grave.

“The British party was thrown together at the last moment – apart from Whymper and Croz the guys didn’t know each other and the fact they didn’t gel well on the mountain played a key part in what transpired.”

Mike penned the novel during the Covid lockdowns of 2020/21, only to see publication delayed when his original publishers sadly went out of business.

“There were times when it felt scaling the Matterhorn would actually be easier than writing a story based on that historic first ascent,” he recalled.

Based on true events in the countdown to tragedy, the novel tells of a tarnished prize; how safety, diligence and prudence were sacrificed in the pursuit of glory and how one moment of ill-luck ruined lives and reputations.

“What interested me was how all three survivors had very different takes on what actually happened,” said Mike.

“The testimony of Whymper – a learned man of letters – is regarded as gospel, while very little credence is attached to the recollections of the Taugwalders, who were poor, illiterate peasant farmers.

“The official cause of the tragedy is said to be a slip by the novice Douglas Hadow, even if none of the three who survived actually saw that happen.

“So the novel is divided into seven chapters – each devoted to one of the guys recounting the tale from their own viewpoint.

“As with most disasters it’s a case of so many ‘what ifs’, so many ‘if onlys’.”

Mike previously worked as a reporter for the Cambrian News and the County Echo. His second novel 'Bluecoat' – based on the true story of the only Welshman to fight at Custer’s Last Stand – is out next year.

*Published by Next Chapter Publishing, ‘The Icarus Ascent: Ghosts of the Matterhorn’ is available from Amazon, Apple, B&N, Google Books and Kobo and all major stores.