I HAD NOT been to Edinburgh for more than 30 years, so I felt I owed Scotland’s hilly capital city a return visit.
By breaking the journey with a stay before and after at a luxurious and wonderfully secluded country house golf hotel near Kelso, I had the best of both worlds.
As we pulled into the drive at The Roxburghe Hotel, I knew this was going to be no ordinary experience, and I was not disappointed.
This is a real retreat in the Scottish Borders, set in a beautiful country house which has been a labour of love by the Duke of Roxburghe.
With 22 bedrooms, the hotel is part of the Roxburghe Estate, which also features the magnificent Floors Castle, home to the 10th Duke of Roxburghe and his family.
My other half got a chance to have a go at a “very challenging” (his words) championship golf course, set in 200 acres, so he was a happy bunny. It’s a Par 72 and 7111-yard course, for those who want to know.
For me, relaxing by a roaring log fire, taking tea on the terrace, dining on exquisite food overseen by world-famous chef Albert Roux, then retiring to a bedroom featuring a four-poster bed, was the ultimate in luxury and me-time.
The Chez Roux restaurant, with a drink and canapes in the Library Bar beforehand, was a real treat. Albert Roux, head of the famous cooking dynasty, oversees the menu and chef training and we sampled delights like cheese soufflé, lobster tail with tomato, Loin of lamb with oxtail, and venison with parsnip done three ways. We also got the chance to try haggis at breakfast.
The hotel has beautiful grounds, woodland walks, and can offer clay shooting at its own shooting school, along with bird shooting and fishing on The Tweed.
Apart from the magnificent property and its first-class food, what lifts this hotel is the fantastic staff, for whom nothing was too much trouble.
While my husband was working his way to the 19th hole, I travelled the few miles on the estate to Floors Castle, which is Scotland’s largest inhabited castle.
Built in 1721 for the 1st Duke of Roxburghe, you can view grand rooms, with art, porcelain and 15th century tapestries. Don’t miss the chance to stroll down to the river and stand on the spot where King James !! once stood. There’s also a Victorian walled garden and you can see where Queen Victoria stopped for afternoon tea.
I was treated to lunch in the Terrace Café where all dishes are prepared by the Duke and Duchess’ personal chef.
Off we went to Edinburgh the following morning, with its medieval Old Town and its elegant Georgian New Town. Looming over the city is Edinburgh Castle, home to Scotland’s crown jewels and the Stone of Destiny, used in the coronation of Scottish rulers.
On our walk up to the castle, we were entertained by bag pipers in full regalia. It was real Scottish Whisky weather!
We stayed in Parliament House Hotel, which is tucked down a pretty cobbled street on Carlton Hill.
It’s in a great location for exploring the city, with a warm welcome and the breakfast in their basement MP’s Bistro was delicious.
If you are in Edinburgh over the festive season, Princes Street Gardens hosts the European Christmas Market, an ice-skating rink and Santa Land, until 7 January
The European Christmas Market has over 100 market stalls tempting shoppers with enticing tastes, smells of bratwurst, waffles and glühwein, and festive crafts.
A Scottish Market is in George Street until Christmas Eve, showcasing some of the best craft, food and drink that Scotland has to offer. There are locally-produced sausages, fresh seafood, unique chocolate, cupcakes, gin, Scottish-brewed craft beer, Scottish crafted jewellery and woodwork.
To see all the sights in one go, take one of Edinburgh’s bus tours. You can catch one on Waverly Bridge.
If you are going to indulge in some retail therapy, the city’s most famous department Store, Jenners, is an institution, and known as the ‘Harrods of the north’. It’s been in the same old corner building since 1838.
Grab a coffee at The Elephant House on the George IV Bridge – it’s said to be where J K Rowling would sit with a cup and her laptop, while writing the early Harry Potter books.
The National Museum of Scotland is a great way to explore Scottish history from the primeval age right up to the modern era, and the 360 degree views of Edinburgh from the roof garden are spectacular. Again, entry is free.
One thing we wanted to do, but ran out of time, was to take a guided ghost tour, which explores the darker side of Edinburgh. You get to visit dark, subterranean vaults, hidden cities beneath the ancient streets.
Time was short because I couldn’t leave without a drink – or two – in The Newsroom, a pub where the walls are lined with front pages reporting on the demise of celebrities.
The following morning, my other half insisted on a detour to golfers’ paradise, Gleneagles resort. It’s located at near Auchterarder, between Perth and Kinross. It’s feels like a self-contained village, with three golf courses, a spa hotel, four restaurants, an art deco bar and a whisky bar.
It took a while to drag him out through the gigantic iron gates…
It's all in the detail: Roxburghe Hotel & Golf Course, is near Kelso. For bookings, tel 01573 450331, email [email protected] or go to http://roxburghe-hotel.net/
Roxburghe is offering 50 per cent off stays until February (use code W50BB for bed and breakfast or W50RO for room only bookings). There are also winter golf packages.
To stay at Parliament House Hotel, ring 0131 478 4000 or go to their website parliament-hotel.co.uk
They have some great offers for January, from just £55 per room. And this month, until the 20th for £130 per night midweek or £167.50 per room at weekends, you can get two nights’ accommodation, full Scottish breakfast, a voucher for Bubbly Afternoon Tea at Eteaket, dinner on the first night, discounted parking (nearby Q-Park) and discounted five-star pool and spa access.